{"id":481,"date":"2026-06-12T14:38:05","date_gmt":"2026-06-12T14:38:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cityrelocationnews.com\/?p=481"},"modified":"2026-06-12T14:38:05","modified_gmt":"2026-06-12T14:38:05","slug":"a-world-class-omakase-in-americas-most-landlocked-state","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cityrelocationnews.com\/?p=481","title":{"rendered":"A World-Class Omakase in America\u2019s Most Landlocked State"},"content":{"rendered":"
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It\u2019s well-known lore, particularly in Omaha, Nebraska, that Warren Buffett\u2014the ninety-five-year-old investor and philanthropist, who is also the city\u2019s most famous living resident\u2014usually gets his breakfast from a McDonald\u2019s near his house. One inference that an outsider could draw from this information is that McDonald\u2019s is the best restaurant in Omaha, good enough for one of the richest men in the world, at least. This is the sort of thing that drives the chef David Utterback a little crazy. Not far from Buffett\u2019s preferred McDonald\u2019s is an ambitious Japanese restaurant called Yoshitomo, which Utterback, who is forty-four and half Japanese, opened in 2017, in what was formerly a Subway. Right next door is Ota, a sleek eight-seat sushi counter where, once a week, Utterback serves something you might be surprised to find in America\u2019s most landlocked state: a world-class omakase.<\/p>\n

Read more Lizzo in the Age of Backlash<\/a><\/p>\n

On a recent Friday night at Ota, Utterback presented me and my fellow-patrons with the first of eighteen artful and inventive courses: tiny tarts, their crisp, fluted shells made from deep-fried nori, the iodine tang of the seaweed playing off a luscious filling of scallop carbonara, punchy with XO sauce and feathered with Parmesan. As he began to prepare nigiri, he offered a stern yet good-natured proclamation on the form. Each piece is meant to be enjoyed immediately, he explained\u2014\u201cDon\u2019t wait for your dining partner, just live in the moment, be selfish\u201d\u2014and eaten as a single perfect bite. \u201cYou have been living life up to this point in the Multiple Bite Sushi Club,\u201d he intoned. \u201cThis is your chance to do better. You can change. Life will be good.\u201d<\/p>\n

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An omakase, as with any tasting menu, can lend itself to preciousness: hushed, nearly tortured precision in the plating, obsession with ingredient pedigree. Utterback wasn\u2019t exactly beating the charges. For nigiri made with tilefish that he\u2019d flown in from Nagasaki, then dry-aged and cured in seaweed, he painstakingly placed a single shiso leaf on each piece, then used a rare Japanese weasel-hair brush to apply a layer of soy sauce infused with preserved cherry blossom. But he was also clearly driven by an exhilarating streak of rebellion. \u201cAll through the north and south of Japan, the construction of sushi changes,\u201d he said, while serving something that resembled a meatball\u2014fat, sticky grains of vinegar-seasoned rice flecked with chewy, briny bits of firefly squid, which glows a bioluminescent blue in Toyama Bay. \u201cAs long as you have sushi rice and literally anything else, it\u2019s sushi.\u201d<\/p>\n

On the stool to my right was Josh Foo, an Omaha-based food photographer and a friend of Utterback\u2019s who told me that he\u2019d recently recovered from a heart attack, a shock considering he\u2019s forty-two, trim, and sprightly. \u201cAt the hospital, this nurse goes, \u2018You\u2019re never gonna have rice again,\u2019 and I remember being, like, I\u2019m Asian, don\u2019t say that to me<\/em>,\u201d Foo said. From his hospital window, he could see the road that would take him to Yoshitomo and to Au Courant, a beloved farm-to-table restaurant across the street known for handmade pastas and scrupulously sourced local produce. \u201cI unhooked myself from everything, and I went, I\u2019m done<\/em>,\u201d Foo told me as Utterback listened, smirking. \u201cI was going to come to Au Courant, come to Yoshitomo. I was just gonna eat as much as I could and die at the bar. And then I got caught, and they sent a psychologist to my room.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Many of the commercial strips in Omaha, a city of about half a million people, have the air of a nineties college town, with low-slung blocks of row houses punctuated by dive bars and caf\u00e9s, thrift stores and record shops. If the city is known for anything, food-wise, it\u2019s beef; from the mid-nineteenth century to the mid-twentieth, it was a hub of American cattle trading and meatpacking, home to one of the largest livestock markets in the world. The Reuben sandwich may or may not have been invented in Omaha (New York lays claim to it, too), and the city\u2019s iconic restaurants are mostly steak houses, such as the Drover, a sixty-year-old Midwestern time capsule with a full salad bar and whiskey-marinated fillets.<\/p>\n

The sense that Omaha might be underestimated, even by the people who live there, is a source of both pride and torment for Utterback. We\u2019d first met in Los Angeles, a city whose sushi doesn\u2019t particularly impress him, a few months prior to my visit; he travels widely to meet other chefs and invite them to Omaha to eat and collaborate. \u201cIn Omaha\u2014and outside of Omaha, too\u2014there\u2019s this assumption that, because something exists in a bigger city, it\u2019s inherently better, right?\u201d he said. He is quick to point out that he has an in with Yamayuki, Tokyo\u2019s top tuna broker, which \u201conly deals to the Michelin guys,\u201d and that he began dry-aging fish\u2014a process that enhances both flavor and texture\u2014long before it was fashionable. \u201cWe\u2019re out here blazing a trail, and every night someone will go, \u2018This is definitely the best sushi in Omaha,\u2019\u00a0\u201d Utterback said. \u201cI don\u2019t even get the state, the region, the surrounding Zip Codes! If we were in New York, if we were in L.A., people wouldn\u2019t say, \u2018This is good for L.A.\u2019 They would say, \u2018This is one of the best I\u2019ve ever had.\u2019 We never get that. No one\u2019s ever tried to change it.\u201d<\/p>\n

Utterback\u2019s parents met on the Japanese island of Okinawa, where his mother was born and where his father was stationed with the U.S. Air Force. They settled in Omaha when Utterback was ten. Utterback\u2019s mother, Hiroko Ota, took cooking cues from her fellow military wives; the family ate a lot of goulash, cottage cheese, and spaghetti, sometimes in a modified yakisoba<\/em>. \u201cShe didn\u2019t really make stuff. She just sort of\u00a0.\u00a0.\u00a0. made stuff out of other stuff,\u201d Utterback recalled. \u201cNobody was excited about dinner.\u201d Special occasions, though, were almost always celebrated at Sushi Ichiban, a restaurant affiliated with the Unification Church, whose members are known as the Moonies. The Church\u2019s founder, the Korean messiah claimant Sun Myung Moon, was largely responsible for popularizing sushi in the United States, driven by a belief that the seafood industry was a divinely inspired solution to world hunger.<\/p>\n

Read more A Wondrous Array of Boundary Pushers at SummerStage<\/a><\/p>\n

In his twenties, as Utterback dipped in and out of community college and played in punk bands\u2014it\u2019s not hard, even now, to imagine him in a mosh pit, with his buzzed hair and tattooed biceps\u2014he got a job cooking at a restaurant called Blue Sushi Sake Grill. By 2014, he was the head chef of the restaurant group that encompassed Blue and had started to experiment with omakase as a side project. On a trip to Japan a few years earlier, he had eaten at Sukiyabashi Jiro, the Tokyo restaurant that would be made famous by the documentary \u201cJiro Dreams of Sushi.\u201d When Utterback told Jiro Ono and his son that he was a sushi chef from Nebraska, they laughed at him, but also agreed to his request for an internship\u2014so long as he moved to Tokyo for at least three years, ideally a decade. Utterback, who\u2019d just gotten married and bought a house in Omaha, instead devoted himself to learning on his own, poring over books, making regular trips to Japan, and befriending masters of the craft.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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In the years since, Utterback has often struggled to reconcile his culinary ambitions and the demands of the local market. In 2024, he jumped at the chance to buy Sushi Ichiban, which had been renamed Sakura Bana, and to upgrade it slightly, paring the menu down to its best-sellers and improving the quality of ingredients. But, when he raised the price of a lunchtime bento box from twelve dollars to fifteen, \u201ceveryone freaked out,\u201d he said. \u201cI got literal handwritten hate mail\u2014on paper, put in an envelope, anonymously mailed\u2014every week.\u201d Within a year, he shut the place down, shouldering a huge loss. \u201cI messed with everyone\u2019s nostalgia,\u201d he said. \u201cI ruined their favorite sushi restaurant\u2014and mine.\u201d<\/p>\n

It\u2019s easy to sympathize with the plight of the best sushi chef in Omaha. Utterback\u2019s cooking is as sophisticated as what you might encounter at equivalent restaurants in New York or Chicago, a feat he pulls off without the infrastructure and specialized talent pool that you can find in bigger cities. He craves recognition and commercial success, yet he wants neither to leave Omaha nor to see the city change too much. About a week before my visit, the annual Berkshire Hathaway shareholders\u2019 meeting had flooded the city with deep-pocketed patrons, including a pair of \u201csushi bros,\u201d Utterback told me, \u201cvery rich people who should have just been at a sports bar.\u201d Instead, they\u2019d booked seats at Ota, and annoyed the hell out of him by loudly sharing their raunchiest strip-club stories. \u201cAnd, like, I have those, too,\u201d Utterback said. \u201cBut, unless I tell you that, I have not told you that it\u2019s O.K. to behave that way at the counter.\u201d<\/p>\n

On my last day in town, Utterback and I stopped by Shredder\u2019s, an irreverent pizza place that he was getting ready to open with one of his former bandmates. As he approved a pile of wall art\u2014framed posters from early-two-thousands punk shows\u2014I peeked at a rough draft of the menu, which included the DJ Rangoochi, a pie topped with crab and fried wonton-wrapper strips. From there, we walked to Koji, an izakaya<\/em> that Utterback opened in 2022, where we sampled some of the menu\u2019s most popular maki rolls, such as the Royale, a flamboyant concoction of spicy salmon, crab, and avocado topped with sambal salsa\u2014the kind of thing that sells better than, say, firefly squid.<\/p>\n

Utterback\u2019s initial vision for Koji was to showcase an array of superlative yakitori: behind the bar, a designated chef, one of Utterback\u2019s few Japanese employees, was carefully tending a binchotan<\/em> grill, basting bronzed cubes of pork belly in tare<\/em>, a classic mix of soy sauce, mirin, sake, and sugar, and rotating skewers of plump, smoky tsukune<\/em> meatballs, to be finished with an egg-yolk sauce. \u201cI thought people would be really excited about it,\u201d Utterback said wistfully. He quickly learned that his customers didn\u2019t share his enthusiasm. The yakitori is what he calls the \u201cdog\u201d of the menu, losing him money every day, yet he can\u2019t bring himself to give up on it.\u201cI just love it too much,\u201d he said.\u00a0\u2666<\/p>\n

Read more Why \u201cBook-Shaming\u201d Won\u2019t Solve the Children\u2019s Literacy Crisis<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

For the chef David Utterback, the sense that Omaha is underestimated is a source of both pride and torment. Hannah Goldfield reviews his restaurants, including Ota, Yoshitomo, Koji, and Shredder\u2019s.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":480,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[15],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-481","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-on-and-off-the-menu"],"yoast_head":"\nA World-Class Omakase in America\u2019s Most Landlocked State - City Relocation News<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/cityrelocationnews.com\/?p=481\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A World-Class Omakase in America\u2019s Most Landlocked State - City Relocation News\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"For the chef David Utterback, the sense that Omaha is underestimated is a source of both pride and torment. 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